In the fast-moving waters of North Carolina’s New River, Hold Fast Oyster Co. grows more than oysters — they cultivate a philosophy of flavor, sustainability and coastal resilience.
Every oyster is a small treasure shaped by time, tide and terrain — a story written in salt and shell. These are tales of changing weather, rising and falling tides, and the constant motion of an intricate network of rivers and bays.
From the first briny kiss to the lingering finish — touches of sweetness, earthiness and delicate salinity — every oyster offers a complex profile developed over time. More than just food, it is a living filter, a barometer of water quality and a distilled expression of its environment. For centuries, oysters have captivated food lovers, not just for their taste, but for their ability to deliver a literal taste of place.
That connection to place is the heart of Hold Fast Oyster Co., nestled along the New River in southeastern North Carolina. Founded by Matt and Kim Schwab, Hold Fast is more than a farm — it’s a living example of how flavor, sustainability and community can converge. What began as a dream has become a thriving operation rooted in craftsmanship, environmental stewardship and a deep love for the coast.
Matt did not start out in aquaculture. His roots are in the water — fishing, exploring and paying close attention to the tides and estuaries of the Carolina coast. Over time, his curiosity turned to commitment. He wanted to understand what made some oysters better than others. How did flow rate, sediment and salinity affect taste? What equipment would hold up best in the strong currents of the New River? Answers did not come from books. They came from hands-on experience — trial and error, sunburns and storms.
Kim came from a different direction. With a background in marketing and communications, she understood the importance of story, connection and hospitality. But she also held a personal passion for food systems and coastal resilience.
Together, Matt and Kim didn’t just start a business, they created a life. The name Hold Fast, borrowed from nautical slang, became their mantra: a reminder to grip tightly, especially when seas get rough.
The New River itself is a character in the story. Unlike most rivers that flow north to south, the New River flows the other way — cutting west to east and emptying directly into the Atlantic. The area where Hold Fast farms its oysters is a high-energy, high-flow zone, a place where freshwater creeks and salty tidal currents collide. This dynamic environment shapes the oysters in subtle but powerful ways.
Water quality, current speed, temperature, all of these elements are constantly in flux. But that’s what makes this particular merroir so prized.
The oysters grow in floating mesh baskets that rock gently in the current. The constant movement naturally tumbles the oysters, strengthening their shells and deepening their cups. Thicker shells mean better protection during transport and longer shelf life. Deeper cups mean plumper meat and more flavor. It’s a natural process with no shortcuts.
Matt monitors the farm obsessively. He checks salinity levels, flips bags on schedule to prevent fouling and spaces the baskets just right to avoid overcrowding. There’s a rhythm to it all, but it’s not mechanical — it’s intuitive. Kim calls it his “tidal instinct,” a sense honed over years of working in the water, learning its moods.
Kim’s domain begins where the water ends. She manages sales, distribution, partnerships and outreach, but her impact goes much deeper. She brings a community-driven ethos to the farm. Education and inclusion are not side projects, they are part of the mission. Hold Fast partners with local schools like Dixon High School to offer hands-on training and jobs to students interested in aquaculture. These are not interns fetching coffee. They are wading into the river, hauling bags, learning the science and sweat behind sustainable seafood.
The couple also opens the farm to curious chefs, journalists and community members who want to understand where their food comes from. Kim sees this as essential to the work they do.
“People want to know the story,” she says. “They want a connection. And they deserve it.”
Of course, there is nothing romantic about oyster farming in July.
“It’s long, hot days, bugs, heat,” Kim says. “You have to be mentally in it. You have to want to be here.”
That mindset — what they affectionately call the “Heck Yes Spirit” — has become a defining part of Hold Fast’s culture. It’s more than positivity. It’s a full-bodied commitment to the work, even when it’s grueling.
“You’re hauling gear in waist-deep water, under a beating sun,” Kim says. “And somehow, you have to find a way to love it.”
That ethos runs through their team, their work ethic and their oysters.
And the oysters are what bring it all together.
Grown in nutrient-rich, fast-moving water, Hold Fast oysters deliver a flavor profile that chefs consistently praise for its clarity and balance. They begin with a clean, briny burst and finish with a subtle sweetness — lightly vegetal, mineral and smooth. These are not blunt, metallic oysters. They are layered and inviting.
In fact, many chefs refer to them as “gateway oysters.” For first-timers, they are accessible: not too strong, not too mushy, just right. For aficionados, they are complex enough to savor and discuss. That’s no accident. Matt has spent more than a decade refining his process to strike that elusive balance. It’s a delicate interplay of science and instinct.
In recent years, tools like the Pangea Shellfish Oyster Flavor Wheel have helped refine the vocabulary around oysters. Similar to a wine-tasting wheel, it breaks flavor down into traits like brininess, creaminess, metallic notes and umami. Hold Fast oysters typically fall in the most desirable quadrant — bright, clean and slightly sweet with a crisp finish.
This flavor-forward approach has earned them spots on menus across the Southeast, from Charleston to Asheville to Washington, D.C. You might find them at an upscale raw bar, a beer-and-oyster pop-up or a coastal food festival. Wherever they appear, they represent more than taste. They represent a place. A process. A philosophy.
But Hold Fast’s influence extends beyond flavor. In a time when climate resilience and food transparency are more urgent than ever, small farms like theirs are playing a vital role in restoring ecological balance. Oysters, after all, are nature’s purifiers. A single adult oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water per day, removing nitrogen and particulate matter.
In areas like the New River, where military installations, tourism and storm runoff can strain local ecosystems, oyster farms provide critical environmental services.
Matt and Kim do not treat this responsibility lightly. They farm using off-bottom gear to minimize seabed disruption. They rotate their growing areas to avoid exhausting any one section of river. And they stay active in conversations about regulation, water quality monitoring and farmer collaboration through the East Coast Shellfish Growers Association.
In an industry that is growing rapidly — sometimes too rapidly — Hold Fast offers a model of deliberate, ethical expansion. They are not chasing volume. They are chasing flavor, balance and sustainability. It is not about having the biggest farm. It is about having the most honest one.
Oysters are fragile, particular and deeply expressive of their environment. They do not thrive under shortcuts. Neither do the people who farm them. That’s why Hold Fast is not just a clever brand — it’s a way of life. It’s about showing up every day, ready to do the work, ready to get wet, ready to chase a better oyster. A better system. A better future for coastal farming.
Matt and Kim did not just build a business. They built a rhythm. A culture. A tide-fed, sun-scorched, wind-blown expression of what is possible when you align with the water instead of fighting it. And in every cold, briny bite of a Hold Fast oyster, you can taste the grit, the craft and the clarity of that commitment.
Slurp ’Em Up
Hold Fast Oyster Co.
Sneads Ferr
Oyster Farm Eco Tours Available
holdfastoysters.com
Facebook: @holdfastoysters
Instagram: @holdfastoysterco
